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Bill Morrison bmorrson@attcanada.ca September 17, 2001 Offering first North American serial rights British Columbia's Ookpik Wilderness Lodge On the next wet, windy, non-flyable evening, do yourself a favor, explore British Columbia by map and, about the middle of the province-55 5N and 126 15W- you'll discover Babine Lake. Follow your finger to the right arm, up past old fort (the old Hudson's Bay Fort Kilmar) and there, all alone, tucked away near the top of the north arm of this 110-mile long lake awaits a delightful surprise. Ookpik, for the non-Innuit reader, is Snow Owl, a floatpilot's dream. No cars, no busloads of happy tourists walking docks and wiggling a wing, "Just checking to see how strong these things are." No sir, the only way in is by floatplane or boat. This secluded lodge offers all the comforts of home, except, of course, neighbors, radio, TV, electricity…the incidental things. Yet, after your floatplane is safe and secure alongside the wharf in Ookpik's tree-protected lagoon you'll find yourself luxuriating in the warm welcome and joyful exuberance of your lovely hostess as she spoils you with wonderful gourmet meals. Visitors from noisy cities speak in hushed tones of the magic peace that settles over them as they slowly tune-in to the wilderness tranquillity, the quiet noise, as your hostess describes it. There are sounds, of course, night sounds of unseen wolves Wooohh Woohhing back and forth in the evening (about then I put another log on the fire), and moose, out of hunting season, are rather clumsy, noisy individuals, I mean a ton of meat sashaying through the forest can be a tad noisy at times. Eagles whistle and chatter at Lord knows what, but mostly all they allow you to hear is the whoosh of majestic wings when departing the nesting tree in search of a high-protein meal of trout for the kids. Bears often mosey through on their way to wherever bears go, mother seems to be always nudging her inquiring offspring along. If a blackbear lumbers past your cabin it's only because there isn't a grizzly close by, as the pecking order is grizzlies first, then black bears. The arrangement seems to work, works for me, I'll tell you. Birds are the noisiest of the bunch, I suppose, always titter-tattering on about something of great interest. The beavers in the pond next door aren't that noisy, except for the tail bit. There is one family of squirrels that will give you a darned good dressing down if you happen to pick-up any of the pinecones they accidentally throw your way. Now floatplane pilots, because of the fresh, clean air they so fortunately enjoy, usually have healthy appetites (well, me, anyway) which are more than amply satisfied with the quality, quantity and variety of the magnificent meals our hostess prepares. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are always a hedonistic treat. Guests are often late leaving for the morning's fishing because of seconds…or thirds. It's difficult to resist another helping of waffles hidden under homemade wild cranberry jam and smothered in homemade buttermilk syrup. Let's just accept that the food is great, O.K., otherwise we'll have no room on the page for anything else once we get into the apple pies, the still warm cinnam…oh, sorry. Babine Lake is particularly blessed with fish, rainbow trout to 12 pounds—usually 6 to 7 pounders, lake trout to 20 pounds, king salmon, sockeye salmon and Burbot abound. And Ookpik lodge has these really stable Dories, specially built in western Washington State, that are a fisherman's treat. The lodge has rods and all the gear you'll need. There are canoes and sailboats and kayaks if you want to relax without some darned fish interrupting your peace and contentment and putting you to work. Your extraordinary hostess, Carol, is also a licensed fishing guide. If you want to explore one or more of the smaller lakes nearby, Carol, with her trusty defender resting in its scabbard on her back, will guide you to the spot. Now, now, the defender is not for the fish, smarty, it's for those big, four-legged black animals that sometimes want to arm-wrestle for the fish we've just landed—the defender ensures that we keep the fish and the arm, northern insurance. If you're planning a trip to Alaska, which is just a bit northwest of here, Ookpik is an excellent spot to relax and rest up for the final leg of your adventure. Or if Ookpik is your destination lodge you'll find all the peaceful wilderness serenity you could ask for…and still be pampered, of course. But I must warn you, this is not your standard, step-right-up folks, lodge. Oh, no, there's only four cabins, and one suite inside the main lodge, all cozy and well appointed with wooden bunk beds, down pillows, down comforters, wood-burning stoves, and kerosene lights for that few pages of a good book before calling an end to a good day. Ookpik Wilderness Lodge will appeal to the floatpilot that enjoys relaxing in comfort, quiet, excellent meals, and good fishing. Those seeking the action that comes with bright lights…well, sorry about that. I feel compelled to warn you though, the magic of Ookpik Lodge and the warmth and vitality of its owner, Carol Morey, will have your floats itching for another opportunity to caress the water off the front of the lodge…again and again. Tailwinds and Calm waters, brother floatpilots
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